I set off in light rain this morning. Another long hard walk today that would take me to the highest point on the Pennine Way - Cross Fell at 2930 feet. My foot had been slowly improving and didn't trouble me too much now and I was feeling strong. Just as well!
For the first hour and a half the rain was light and visibilty not too bad. The walking was easy-ish. I crossed Great Rundale Beck and the path began to climb. The tops of the hills were in mist . After crossing Swindale Beck I entered the mist and the path began to climb steeply, the wind picked up and the light rain turned to very heavy rain. It was quite hard going and the visibilty deteriorated quickly until I could often see no further than 10 yards, sometimes less.
..I entered the mist and started to climb higher - the sheep were still coming down!
I climbed on, it was very steep at times and route finding was by compass only now. I made quite slow progress as I walked on the compass, zig-zagging in an effort to find the next identifiable landmark which I knew would be the obelisk of stones on Knock Old Man. Eventually the obelisk loomed out of the mist - I hit it straight off and felt pleased, as the visibilty was so poor now that I only saw it when I was within about 15 feet of it!
I sheltered from the wind for a moment or two and set off NNE towards the brow of Knock Fell , which I soon found - it was fairly easy to identify by the many cairns. I turned NNW now and the ground levelled out as I made my way towards Great Dun Fell, about a mile and a half away. The ground was boggy here, sometimes the bogs took the form of small ponds 15 to 20 feet across, sometimes bigger. It was difficult to find a path through these bogs, particularly in the poor visibilty, and keep an accurate bearing. This was probably the longest one and a half miles I had ever walked, but this record wasn't to stand for long as there was worse to come on the approach to Cross Fell via Little Dun Fell!
The visibilty occasionally improved for 30 seconds or so at a time and I made as much progress as I could at these times. I took the last photograph of the day on this section, half way between Knock Fell and Great Dun Fell (2798 feet). From here on the mist never allowed more than 10 yards visibilty until I reached Garrigill, towards the end of the days walk.
The weather improves - for 30 seconds!
Eventually I reached the tarmac road below Great Dun Fell - this is the highest road in England and leads up to the radar station on top of Great Dun Fell. Two walkers approached from the other direction and I could see the fear on their faces! 'It's awful up there' one of them said 'Really terrible conditions - the worst we've ever experienced!' 'It's the same that way', I said, pointing the way I'd come. I thought to myself (and expect they were thinking the same) 'If they thought it was bad where they've come from , they've got a shock coming -it couldn't have been as bad as what I've just come through!'
Well, it could be and it could also be worse! Tony Hopkins says in the National Trail guide 'The road leads to the radar installation topping Great Dun Fell, a white golf ball with associated masts and buildings.......no one will ever get lost trying to find Great Dun Fell in anything short of white out conditions'.
I didn't get lost (more luck than judgement, I'm sure) but neither did I see the 'white golf ball' topping Great Dun Fell! I caught a glimpse of some buildings and masts as I followed the perimeter fence around the installation, but not even this famous landmark, which can apparently been seen for many miles on a clear day, was to be of any assistance in these conditions!
The half mile or so to Little Dun Fell was difficult. The wind was at the level that can (and did) lift you from your feet, the driving rain hurt as it hit your face and the visibilty was very, very poor. I had to walk on my compass , continuously, zig-zagging 50 paces at an angle left of my bearing and then 50 paces to the right in an effort to 'hit' the next landmark, Little Dun Fell.
I made slow progress but found Little Dun Fell - sort of! I actually found a shelter that enabled me to stop and look at the map and so discovered that I was on route but had gone a little way past Little Dun Fell without realising it! The visibilty was no more than 10-15 feet at this shelter. I checked and re-checked my bearing and set off again into the unknown!
The weather worsened! My memory of the walk from here to Cross Fell is of mist, extremely high winds, the sort of rain that would fill your boots in seconds (if you weren't wearing them), and the feeling of being almost lost for long periods of time! It was also very cold - I had gloves on since leaving Knock Old Man. As it turned out, I wasn't lost but didn't know this until the substantial cross-shaped wind shelter appeared alarmingly and suddenly from the mist. I soon spotted the trig point and knew for sure now that I was on course.
I didn't stop on the summit of Cross Fell (at 2930 feet the highest point on the Pennine Way) but set off North for a short way and then changed my course to NNW .The route finding now relied on a little guess-work - I knew I had to reach a track which should be easy to identify as it was an ancient route, probably a 'corpse road'. I didn't zig-zag' across my bearing but instead tended to walk North of NNW , knowing that I would then hit the track at some point, albeit further East than the official junction.
I did find the track fairly easily even though the visibilty and weather had not improved. I soon passed Greg's Hut, an emergency shelter with basic supplies- it is shown on the map. The rest of the days walk was straight forward now although it became a bit of a slog in the poor conditions. Route finding was not a problem from here on. The wind eventually dropped and I was able to eat my lunch - on the move as the rain was still heavy.
I arrived in Alston eight hours after starting the walk - fairly slow for a twenty mile walk. I hadn't stopped all day, probably the furthest I have ever walked without stopping, and had seen only two people.
I thoroughly enjoyed the days walk. I felt very fortunate to have experienced this section of the Pennines in such appalling conditions. I was also very pleased to have had the opportunity to test my navigation skills, an opportunity unlikely to present itself to this extent for some time to come!
Even bad days on the Pennine Way can have their rewards.
The day's rewards were not yet done, for Alston is a delightful little town brimming with character. I ate in The Blue Bell - an excellent chicken korma with rice, ginger pudding with custard (very large) and 2 pints of Theakstons. Don't be put off by the exterior appearence of The Blue Bell - it's fine once you are through the door, and the food is very good.
Slept very well.
Rating for day out of 10 :-